CAR WARRIORS: COMPARE THE 2014 RAM 1500 ECO DIESEL VS 2014 RAM 2500

Friday, February 28, 2014

COMPARE THE 2014 RAM 1500 ECO DIESEL VS 2014 RAM 2500

Finally there is a choice in the types of trucks you can have: light-duty or heavy-duty. The 2014 model year has brought in significant improvements to the entire Ram truck line. Ram has become the first manufacturer to bring to market a diesel engine available in a ½-ton pickup since the ’90s and has revolutionized the ¾-ton by introducing the first-ever factory five-link rear suspension in a heavy-duty application. These trucks have both thrown off the ties that have historically bound their segments, and by breaking with tradition Ram has created two exceptional machines.

There continues to remian many questions about this change: Will the 1500 live up to Ram’s reputation without a Cummins? Will a 3.0L V-6 be powerful enough? Can the Ram 2500 still tow as well as it used to? It was for this reason that we felt it to be our duty to acquire both of these trucks and run them side by side through a series of real-world tests. We set out to not only answer these questions but also to help people decide which truck is the right one for their needs. At the end of the day, not everyone needs a ¾-ton, but everybody should be driving a diesel.

To compare two different classes of trucks may seem like blasphemy to some, but when we look at the hard facts, these two are more similar than they seem at first glance. Keeping things as close to real-world as possible, we ordered our testers outfitted as most would buy them, and as similarly as possible. Both trucks are crew cab four-wheel-drive shortbeds, and both are trimmed in premium packages. The two trucks are also dimensionally similar, as they share the same sheetmetal from the grille back to the C-pillar, and they both come equipped with the same five-link-style rear suspension. Marking the only notable difference in options between our subjects is that the Ram 1500 was delivered with the company’s optional air suspension, Ram Boxes, and 20-inch wheels. And while both are equipped with shortbeds, the 1500’s measures 5 feet 7 inches, and the 2500’s is a slightly larger 6 feet 4 inches.

2014 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel The ’14 Ram 1500 4x4 was delivered with the new 3.0L EcoDiesel engine, ZF 8HP70 eight-speed automatic transmission, and BorgWarner 44-44 transfer case. To keep the test as close to equal as possible, a Crew Cab in Laramie trim was selected.

And now we take a close look at the 2014 Ram 1500

2014 Ram 2500 Our ’14 Ram 2500 4x4 tester arrived equipped with the 6.7L Cummins engine mated to the 68RFE automatic transmission and BorgWarner 44-46 transfer case. The drivetrain was wrapped in a Crew Cab body with a Laramie Longhorn trim package.

The highway is where trucks spend most of their life—even four-wheel-drive models—so to adequately test these two we mapped out a 500-mile loop that would take us along both flat highway and up to nearly 5,000 feet of elevation, four different times. Our two professional drivers set the cruise control at 5 mph over the posted speed limit (75 mph) and swapped vehicle position at the halfway point. At the end of our drive, the Ram 1500 EcoDiesel netted an impressive 28.47 mpg, while the Cummins 6.7L-equipped 2500 knocked down 19.97 mpg.

On the highway is where the Ram 1500 with the EcoDiesel really excels. Power delivery from the 3.0L V-6 is extremely smooth and incredibly linear, accelerating briskly to well beyond the legal speed limit. While it doesn’t pack quite the same punch off the line as its Hemi-powered brethren (which, at 5.7L, is nearly twice the displacement of the VM V-6), passing is a nonissue thanks to the engine’s 420 lb-ft of torque. Sitting in the cab, one would be hard pressed to tell the truck is even running, let alone powered by a diesel. Ram engineers worked tirelessly to ensure the EcoDiesel was extremely smooth and quiet, and we would say their hard work has paid off. Shifting from the eight-speed transmission is polished and works well at keeping the EcoDiesel firmly in its powerband. Steering feel is effortless thanks to the electric power assist. It has good road feedback and a nice, on-center feel.

Stepping into the Ram 2500, the power difference is immediately noticeable, along with the increase in perceived turbo lag. The heavy-duty 68RFE six-speed transmission fires off quick and firm shifts, which are much more noticeable than the more refined eight-speed found in the 1500. While quieter than previous generations, inside or out you know when the 6.7L Cummins engine is running. Steering feel is somewhat heavy and a bit dead on center compared to the 1500, which helps to instill confidence when towing and aids in giving the truck a heavy-duty feel. While the Ram 2500 is primarily a workhorse, it rolls down the road straight and smooth, leaving very little to be desired.

One of the biggest complaints about ¾-ton trucks that we have heard over the years has been about ride quality. Traditionally, to achieve the high payload and towing capacities, these trucks have needed an extremely firm suspension. Ram has now turned the heavy-duty world on its head with the introduction of the first-ever five-link coil spring rear suspension on a ¾-ton. Similar in design and upsized 10 percent from the smaller Ram 1500, the new rear suspension provides a smoothness that was previously only achieved with a trailer in tow. The Ram 2500’s ride is not soft, but it is no longer kidney-jarringly stiff. A comparison we can all relate to would be a leaf-sprung truck with 800 pounds of sandbags in the bed. The switch to a three-link-style front suspension provides far greater roll stiffness compared to the previous generation four-link suspension. Overall, we didn’t notice any increase in body roll or negative handling from the new style of suspension—only a greatly improved ride.

The Ram 1500 chassis and suspension are carryover from the previous model years and performed exactly as expected. The ride is compliant enough to isolate its occupants from highway irregularities, but not so soft as to lose its truck-like feeling. Optioned onto our Ram 1500 was the company’s air suspension system, which replaces the coil springs at all four corners. This system allows for the vehicle to lower into an aerodynamic mode while at highway speeds for better fuel economy, and to rise up when increased ground clearance is required. It also has the ability to self-level to adjust for trailer tongue weight or a payload in the bed. At $1,695, the upcharge for the air suspension is so reasonable, there’s almost no reason not to check that box.

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KNOWING ABOUT YOUR POWER-TRAIN WARRANITY

A powertrain warranty is a form of assurance offered by the manufacturer of an automobile. When a consumer purchases a vehicle, at the time of sale, he or she will be given a powertrain warranty, which will cover all or part of the powertrain of the underlying automobile. When a mechanical problem occurs to the powertrain the costs associated with repair or replacement are covered in the powertrain warranty—the manufacturer or dealer whole sold the automobile will pay to have the car fixed. That being said, what parts are covered and the extent of the repayment associated with fixing the car will vary greatly based on the powertrain warranty offered.

Depending on the manufacturer, a powertrain warranty will provide different forms of coverage based on interpretative differences; for example, one manufacturer’s definition of an engine can be referred to as a ‘long block’, meaning the engine, as well as everything attached to it cannot be removed. Another definition of an engine can be a “short block” meaning only part of the engine—typically the piece below cylinder head—cannot be removed. As a result, the coverage abilities will vary between these two warranties if the engine proved to be faulty.

In addition to the engine, the type of automobile will necessitate different variables within the powertrain warranty. For example, if you purchased a manual transmission vehicle, the warranty may exclude repairs or replacements for important pieces, such as the clutch—an extended warranty for a manual transmission will typically only provide coverage for the driveshaft and the axles.

A powertrain warranty will last for a certain number of years or for a maximum number of miles. In most instances, the powertrain warranty will last longer than a typical car warranty; the basic powertrain warranty is offered as a 10 year or 100,000 mile warranty, or whichever comes first.

Other Warranites Usually available to car buyers:

Basic: Also known as "bumper-to-bumper" coverage, this is the general coverage that would pay to repair defects in factory-installed parts. Tires are not typically included because they're usually covered under a separate tire manufacturer warranty.

Corrosion: Covers rust that causes holes in sheet metal in parts such as the doors or side panels.

Roadside assistance: Provides help with towing and tire-changing if the car breaks down while traveling.

It's best to check with dealers for specifics, but here is a list of seven top auto companies that offer among the best car warranties, despite the fact that many are rated safe cars by independent research firms.

Car Insurance Tips

Find out what’s covered and what isn’t. Get your quote in writing and confirm the accuracy of each vehicle and driver you are insuring, as well as the coverages you requested. Ask about free, value-added features, such as emergency roadside assistance. Check to see if repairs are guaranteed for as long as you own your car, and find out what kind of payment options are available.

To see if you’re getting credit where credit is due, it's a good idea to find out all the discounts available to you. Some simple ways to save money on your auto insurance include maintaining a clean driving record, being a good student and the inclusion of certain safety features when buying a new car can save you money on your policy.

Your state sets forth the minimum liability coverage you must maintain, as mentioned above. But these are just the legal minimums and might not give you the coverage you need. You'll have to decide what you want to buy beyond these minimums. Keep in mind that you are looking to find the balance between having adequate coverage and overpaying.

According to Consumer Reports, a general guideline for adequate bodily injury liability limits is $100,000 per person and $300,000 per accident, plus $100,000 for property damage. These amounts are what your insurer will pay to someone you are in an accident with. For uninsured motorist coverage, you should get the same amount as for bodily injury liability, as this covers your medical costs when someone who is not insured hits you.

Auto insurance tip #1
Understand why you need auto insurance
In short, you need car insurance to protect your car, yourself and your passengers. You also protect any assets, like your home and savings, as well as comply with state law.

Auto insurance tip #2
Know your current coverages-but be willing to adjust
Use your current coverages and limits as a starting point; you can refer to your declarations page for this information. Then, adjust your coverages as necessary to match your lifestyle-which might be different than it was when you first bought the policy.

For example, if your teenager starts driving next month, you might consider adding him or her to your policy now. Or, if you just bought a new car, you might choose loan/lease payoff coverage, so that if your car is stolen or declared a total loss, you'll have help paying off your loan or lease.

Auto insurance tip #3
Decide what you want to protect, then choose your coverages

Auto insurance tip #4
Use deductibles to your advantage
Your deductible is what you agree to pay out of pocket when you use your car insurance. In general, the higher you set your deductible, the less you'll pay for your policy. And conversely, if you set your deductible low, you'll pay more for your policy, but less when you have a claim.

Auto insurance tip #5
Know that certain things affect your rate
Insurance companies evaluate a variety of things when they calculate your rate, from your driving record to where you live and how many miles you drive on average. Keep this in mind when you see your rate.

More alternatives:

Raise your comprehensive and collision deductibles to at least $1,000, which lowers your premiums and prevents you from filing small claims that could jeopardize a claims-free discount. Add some more money to your emergency fund so you’ll have the cash to pay the deductible if anyone in your family does have an accident.

Drop collision and comprehensive coverage entirely on older cars that are worth little more than the deductible. You may be paying more in premiums than you could ever get back from the insurer, even if the car is totaled.

Tell your insurer if your child goes away to college. If your child goes to school more than 100 miles away and does not use the car, you can usually get a big break on your premiums but still have coverage when he or she comes home for vacation.

Ask about other discounts for teenage drivers. Some insurers offer discounts for driver-safety programs, cutting costs if the kids take a special class, watch a DVD, or read a driver-safety book and take a test. Ask your insurer what your kid needs to do to qualify.

Make the most of multi-policy discounts. You’ll usually get a break on your auto insurance and your homeowners insurance if you keep both policies with the same company. You may get an additional discount if you include an umbrella policy, which provides extra liability coverage beyond your auto-insurance limits and can be particularly valuable when you have a teenage driver.

Some insurers offer much better deals than others for teenage drivers, so it’s important to compare costs. The insurance company that offered the best rate for you and your spouse may have some of the highest rates when you add a teenage boy to the policy - and it’s almost always better to add the child to your policy rather than have him get his own policy.

You can get price quotes from several online insurance companies like Progressive or AllState or get personalized service from an independent insurance agent who works with many companies. You may not want to switch from a longtime insurer just to save a few dollars, however, because your current company may be less likely to raise your rate or drop you if your child has an accident. If you stay with the insurance company you currently have there more room for forgiveness and benefits of such various programs. Also keep in mind that if you have been getting a multi-policy discount, your homeowners-insurance rate might rise if you take your auto-insurance business elsewhere.

One thing you don’t want to do in an attempt to reduce your premiums is skimp on liability coverage. recommends liability limits of at least $250,000 per person, $500,000 per accident and $100,000 for property damage or a policy with a “combined single limit” of $500,000, when available, which does not limit the coverage to $250,000 per person involved in the accident. Young drivers are more likely to have accidents, and lowering your liability limits could leave you on the hook for tens of thousands of dollars in expenses if your child does hit another car or injure someone.

CAR WARRIORS

Friday, February 28, 2014

COMPARE THE 2014 RAM 1500 ECO DIESEL VS 2014 RAM 2500

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